Replacing Windshield Perimeter Trim Moulding Gasket on a BMW

Replacing Windshield Perimeter Trim Moulding Gasket on a BMW

BLOG ARTICLE: http://blog.bavauto.com/17336

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BMW DIY Video – How to Replace Windshield Perimeter Trim Molding Gasket (Moulding Frame)

PARTS:

Applicable windshield trim for BMW model being repaired – www.bavauto.com

Click for Windshield Trim for E39 5-series:
http://www.bavauto.com/fland.asp?part=51%2031%208%20159%20784

TOOLS:

Non-Marring Pry Tool set – www.BavAuto.com

Click below for Non-Marring Pry Tools:
http://www.bavauto.com/se1.asp?dept_id=5541

Single edge razor blades or “X-Acto” knife blades

PROCEDURE:

We commonly hear of BMW owners who have been told that the windshield must be removed in order to replace these windshield trim moldings. And, of course, a healthy bill or quote is presented. We have found that it is not necessary to remove the windshield. The trim moldings can easily be replaced at home, with our non-marring pry tool sets and a bit of time and patience.

Follow along as we replace the trim on a later model BMW. Note that the various BMW models will have some differences in how the moldings specifically install, but the basics are shown here and this should allow you to determine if you’d like to replace your own windshield trim moldings.

We commonly hear of BMW owners who have been told that the windshield must be removed in order to replace these windshield trim moldings. And, of course, a healthy bill or quote is presented. We have found that it is not necessary to remove the windshield. The trim moldings can easily be replaced at home, with our non-marring pry tool sets and a bit of time and patience.

Follow along as we replace the trim on a later model BMW. Note that the various BMW models will have some differences in how the moldings specifically install, but the basics are shown here and this should allow you to determine if you’d like to replace your own windshield trim moldings. When you are ready to tackle the job, you can order the tools and the moldings at www.bavauto.com or call our Advisors at 800-535-2002.

PARTS:

Applicable windshield trim for BMW model being repaired – www.bavauto.com

Click below for Windshield Trim for E39 5-series:
BMW windshield moulding frame trim gasket BavAuto

TOOLS:

Non-Marring Pry Tool set – www.BavAuto.com
Single edge razor blades or “X-Acto” knife blades

Click below for Non-Marring Pry Tools:

PROCEDURE:

1) Start at one of the upper corners and use one of the tapered pry-tools to work the corner up and out of the channel.

2) Use the wide pry-tool to loosen and push the trim back from the edge of the windshield, along the “A” pillar.

3) Pull the trim up and out of the “A” pillar channel. Do both sides before removing the top section.

4) Use the wide pry-tool to loosen and push the trim away from the glass, along the upper roof edge.

5) Use the tapered pry-tool to work the upper corner away from the glass and out of the channel.

6) Pull the trim up and out of the upper channel.

7) Clean the perimeter of the glass with a razor blade or “X-Acto” knife blade. Also clean out the channel between the glass and the body panels, using one of the smaller non-marring pry-tools.

8) Position the new trim over the windshield. Carefully center the trim (measuring and marking the center of the upper trim and the middle of the windshield, is a good idea).

9) Use the various non-marring pry-tools to push the trim down into the channel and around the edge of the glass. Start at one of the corners and work across the top, then work on the sides. Finish by using the wide tool to push the trim snugly against the edge of the glass, by pushing the trim toward the glass from under the outer lip of the trim.

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All products noted in this video can be purchased in our online store, http://www.bavauto.com/, 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. You are also welcome to e-mail us at info@bavauto.com or call into our headquarters and speak to our knowledgeable advisors at (800) 535-2002 (Mon.-Thurs. 8AM to 9PM EST, Fri. 8AM to 7PM EST, and Sat. 9AM to 4PM EST
www.BavAuto.com

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Comments

USURPER says:

Just what I needed to know. Thanks for the video, much appreciated!

Blanky says:

What type of weather strip should I use for the chrome trim on my e34? Its the chrome trim right above the window.

idunckel04 says:

Is there not a strip with adhesive that needs to be applied?

MrUnderwurlde says:

Couple of additional points after reviewing the BMW repair manual….

The sealant used to bond the windscreen down can bond to the gasket. The gasket has a special tear-off strip that will tear away as it is removed in cases where the sealant has bonded to it. When replacing just the gasket, the instructions call for the tear-off strip on the new gasket to be removed prior to installation. When the glass is also being replaced at the same time, the tear-off strip should not be removed. (With that, if the just the gasket is replaced and then the glass is replaced later on, a brand new gasket should be used otherwise it will be impossible to remove the gasket again as it won't have the tear-off strip and will be bonded to the sealant). When I removed mine, the tear-off strip was pretty much intact, suggesting the sealant was recessed a little further in, so I didn't bother to remove it from the new gasket.

The instructions do not call for any additional sealant to be used. The new gasket already has a bead of butylene sealant in the C-channel (this is the tacky substance seen on removal)

Where excessive sealant was used for glass installation and is now visible in the channel, the bottom rubber edge should be pared away to allow proper seating of the gasket. (presuming you can't remove it from the channel). I had one small section where excessive sealant was used and had bonded to the main gasket beyond the tear-off strip. It was a pain but I did manage to remove it using a needle nose pliers and a twisting motion I also managed to chip the edge of the glass – luckily it did not crack. I suspect the excessive use of sealant is the main cause of windscreens breaking on gasket removal as the sealant breeches the tear-off strip and bonds to the gasket, and more force is then required to remove it (application of heat may help here).

Once out, I cleaned up the channel and area around the windscreen. I scraped away the bit of excess sealant that was in the channel but in hindsight this was a bad idea. The excess was up near the corner and in scraping it away, I scraped the paint as well. The corners are the one place where water is likely to pool under the seal as it rolls off the roof. I dabbed a bit of paint on the scratch to prevent rusting.

Installation was very straightforward after that. In my excitement of pulling the old gasket off, I neglected to pay proper attention to the way it meets the front cowl. While sightly counter intuitive, the gasket runs under the cowl. By the way if the gasket has deteriorated and requires replacing, it is very likely that the rubber part of the cowl has deteriorated too. Mine started to crumble as soon as I touched it. Replacement cowl has been added to my to-do list.

All in all its an easy diy as long as you're not unlucky with excess bonding sealant.

Hope this helps.

muhibbullah kapoor rahim says:

Is there any different if the window removed and install new trim ?

ACS III says:

Why doesn't anyone mention part number 51311925433?? Where does it go, what's it for?

linen grey ghost says:

I could only wish to have the good fortune the majority of posters had here; mine was/is a nightmare and after three- and one-half hours (3 1/2 hours) a complete failure.

2007 BMW E86 Z4 3.0si coupe, probably original gasket/seal/trim installed at factory and after 15 years cracked to hell and flapping/whistling at highway speeds.

Watched all the videos I could find, 'ole Otto" at Bavarian Autosport, a number of YouTube experienced posters; watched them several times and wrote notes to take into the garage.

The only conclusion I can reach is that the gasket/seal/trim was installed onto the windshield at the factory and then the windshield with gasket/trim/seal was installed into the car.

The amount of clean-up time exceeded thirty minutes (30 minutes); was careful to only utilize non-marring plastic trim tools, "Goof-Off", "SprayAway" glass cleaner, and lots of paper towels.

While removing the original, damaged gasket/seal/trim took notice that there is a metal "C" embedded in the gasket/seal/trim that has to form around the edge of the windshield glass; there is no way that I could discover to replicate this in my garage. I made numerous attempts over the course of over an hour to lubricate, use aforementioned trim tools, to work the trim around the windshield glass – – – you guessed it: NO WAY IN THIS REALITY.

There is a word I am thinking of to describe the engineers that designed a piece of degradable rubber trim that cannot be replaced without removing a windshield glass and risking breaking or damaging that in the process, but I will keep that word to myself.

I have to assume that most people are just jamming the gasket/seal/trim in crushing the "C" channel that is supposed to grip the inner and outer edges of the glass; maybe not realizing this action; and when a seemingly tight positioning is achieved saying: "JOB DONE, YAY ME"; well maybe I have an extra tight clearance between the windshield glass and the opening in the body, but there was no way I could achieve even this; bloody knuckle and sore hands to prove it.

Lest anyone think I am some kind of "newbie" and ignorant I will state for the record that I am in my sixth (6th) decade on this planet and have been working on cars for fifty plus (50+) of those years.

Good Luck to the rest of you, for me it's going to be a bead of black urethane and wait for the inevitable rock to be thrown back at me by a non-tire flapped vehicle causing a chip/crack and let the insurance deal with it. Man, this is really frustrating – – – Can you tell?!

Macsene Saintus says:

Nice can I ask you a question?

Really Happenings says:

Working on my 2002 Volvo V70 presently, need to pick up some non-marring chisels. $400 to safelite, $300 to Volvo in parts! But I'm replacing ALL the surrounding trim, a cowl seal, various clips, and cleaning out the roof rails too, i.e. breaking a lot of 20-year-old plastic bits along the way. The upper and lower windshield trim were the most expensive at $80 each. I'm basically doing all the work for the safelite guy, he's just going to show up and swap the glass. After that he can bugger off, nobody touches my dad's last car!

Cleon Hartman says:

I miss Otto…. 🙁

Andrew Lawson says:

As usual excellent video, thanks Otto

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