DIY: BMW E39 Washer Pump Troubleshooting and Replacement

Impact wrench: https://mobiledistributorsupply.com/24662-oemtools-24662-20v-max-lithium-ion-1-2-in-drive-cordless-impact-wrench-oem.html

Video tutorial on how to troubleshoot and replace the washer pump on a BMW E39. This particular car I am working with here today is a 1997 BMW 540i. A faulty washer pump will completely stop working, so when you try to apply windshield washer fluid, the wipers will swipe, but not liquid is sprayed.

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Tools/Supplies Needed:
-8mm 3/8” drive socket
-3” 3/8” drive extension
-spray can nozzle
-multimeter
-clean rag
-side cutters
-cable/zip tie
-silicone spray
-washer pump (#67128362154)
-gasket w/ strainer (#61667006063)
-gasket w/o strainer (#61661365657)

Procedure:
-safely elevating the front passenger side wheel and remove the wheel
-I placed a jack stand under the subframe as a safety measure
-popping back the fender liner, it uses 8mm bolts which will need to be removed on the backside
-remove the expanding clips, these have a center pin
-I used a nozzle from a spray can, seems to work perfectly for this
-slowly push in the pin, don’t be too forceful because we need to retrieve these after for reinstallation
-pull the liner back to expose the pump
-you can stick something inside to help keep the liner open
-the pump for the washer jets is the second one, the first one on this particular vehicle is for the headlight washers, this may vary between models
-push the tab in on the electrical connector and pull up to disconnect
-once removed, we can test the circuit to ensure it is working correctly
-using a multimeter, set it to the two digit dc voltage setting
-insert the probe in the connector and then activate the circuit
-you’ll need to have the key in the on position, then push the switch
-you should see battery voltage at the plug
-if no voltage is present, you may have a faulty switch, blown fuse, damage wire or some other fault in the circuit
-if battery voltage is low, then you may have a correction connector
-you can also test the ground and power wire by separately testing them to a known ground or power source
-beyond using a multimeter you can also just simply plug an extra working pump into the circuit and then test
-you will hear the pump activate for a moment until the sequence is done
-remove the line which is snapped into place
-for the new pump, I sprayed the tip in a food safe silicone spray, this won’t dry out the rubber or plastic, but will make the installation easier
-clean the surrounding around off so we minimize the risk of dirt falling inside the tank
-for installation, I’ll try not draining the fluid, so have everything ready within reaching distance when you pull the pump out
-using side cutters, remove the zip tie and then pull the line off
-twist and pull the pump straight up to remove and once removed, plug the hole with your finger
-replace the rubber gasket if needed and then reinstall the new pump by pushing it into place
-rotate the pump to ensure it is seated corrected
-reinstall the hose and add a small cable tie to the hose
-snap the hose back into place, ensure you have no leaks and make sure everything is seated correctly and test out the washer pump before putting everything back together
-reinstall the fender liner
-as for the plastic clips, install the outer portion first without the center insert
-then push in the center pin
-reinstall the wheel and you’re done

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