►Audi B8s have reached the point where many of them are beginning to need a front-end overhaul. Whether you’re experiencing clunking, vibrating, or declining handling characteristics, it probably means that the bushings and ball joints in your front control arms are in desperate need of replacing.
This kit contains everything you need to completely replace both your upper and lower front control arms on your Audi B8. With this kit, the bushings and the majority of the ball joints come pre-installed to make your job that much easier.
READ THE FULL GUIDE HERE: https://blog.fcpeuro.com/how-to-replace-front-control-arms-audi-b8-a4-a5-q5
SUBSCRIBE: https://hubs.ly/H0cDnfN0
GET THIS KIT: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/audi-control-arm-kit-8k0407693afkt
TOOLS NEEDED:
16-21mm Sockets: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/39-pc-1-2-drive-6-point-standard-deep-impact-metric-socket-set-gearwrench-84948n
16-21mm Wrenches: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/15-piece-combination-set-metric-gearwrench-81902
Hook Pick Set: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/8-pc-long-hook-pick-set-gearwrench-84010
Dead Blow Hammer: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products?keywords=dead%20blow
Strut Spreader Socket: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/audi-vw-strut-housing-socket-cta-manufacturing-4005
Pickle Fork: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/ball-joint-separator-cta-manufacturing-cta-a415
Ball Joint Separator: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/ball-joint-separator-scissor-type-cta-tools-4013
Torque Wrench: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/1-2-drive-micrometer-torque-wrench-30-250-ft-lbs-gearwrench-85066
T25 Torx Socket: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/13-pc-1-4-3-8-1-2-drive-external-torx-socket-set-gearwrench-80583
Get free parts from FCP Euro:
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 Front Control Arm Replacement – DIY')){kind=link}
Just bought a B9 A4, so I think I should start saving for labour costs.
Great Video, thx a lot ..
Great Job bro.
For removing the pinch bolt, if you preload the suspension it should be easier to come out right? It's those two upper control arms that are grabbing the bolt that makes it very hard to remove.
Brilliant video, I'm doing my 2010 B8 A4 Avants arms soon and I plan on soaking the pinch bolt area a few months before with PB blaster to hopefully give me more of a chance.
you're not supposed to use heat to get the bolt out and even Audi itself warns against it due to the aluminum carrier being weakened. The bolt can actually be easily removed with enough heat, but it's the carrier that can't handle it and it loses strength because of it. This is why Audi made tools for past models (which no longer work on the new models) and why so many people are afraid to go to independent shops- they will always use heat and weaken the carrier in a critical area.
Some advice: plan the job way in advance and add oil every so often up to months in advance. The oil will eventually work its way in there.
Audi came up with an updated bolt which has reduced diameters in certain areas. I've tried ordering it and never got it. Only got the standard one. All this because they didn't put anti-seize on.
Great presentation, Great Instructions. Great information. Unfortunately on the a very bad brand – Meyle. So far, other than their HD link rods, NON of their other products are lasting. That include engine mountings, control arm bushes, brake pads, coolant extension tank. All of them fail within a few months of regular use, within warranty period. But their service is so ridiculously bad, I'm better off turning to any other brands. This is a brand, I am positively steering away from. This is a brand that severely erode my high regards for anything 'German'.
Other than that, I think you did a good job.
Also, I see what you did there when installing the top arms, by lining them back using the unremoved one to show you the position. But still, not a good practice. At least mention it in the video that the bush bolts must be torqued with a loaded suspension.
Oh, and btw, using chisrls, air hammers, punches and grinders on an aluminum spindle is barbaric and quite unprofessional…probably diy style…maybe. there's a correct specialty vag tool specifically designed to press the bolt out without damaging the aluminum structure. It presses it out in less than 10mins.
They do, actually. The sleeves do go back in. And fairly easily with some lube, block of wood and a c-clamp.
Don’t ever work in the rust belt up north I have never had the trouble you just had removing the bolt out of the top ball joints. I use a flat punch to spread open the knuckle. Lucky you didn’t have some amateur having changed the upper bolts with having the strut mount removed and fished through the outside.
use heat it's your friend!
Excellent video. Thank you for the awesome explanation. It’s about time to do this job on my S4, I will for sure be using your video and parts. Thank you
Surprised you didn't change out the front struts while you were at it. Good video overall!
Very informative. Thank you. Only 78K miles? I wouldn't "think" you would need to replace basically the entire ft suspension with those few miles. Audi ownership never fails to surprise.
How many miles did that A4 have?