Audi A4 B8 Rear Shocks Install 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016

Audi A4 B8 Rear Shocks Install 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016

2009-2016 Audi A4 Rear Shocks Replacement Installation
Parts list Links:
Bilstein Shocks 19-171609 for Standard Suspension https://amzn.to/2LC7Q2g
Bilstein Shocks 19-171623 for Sport Suspension https://amzn.to/2XrxMjA

Tools list:
Ryobi P261 Impact Wrench Kit (tool, battery, and charger) https://amzn.to/2LF7AQ7
Impact socket set https://amzn.to/2JgKFch
Breaker bar https://amzn.to/2LCdt0o
Vice Grips https://amzn.to/2Jfj6zV

If your Audi A4 B8 model is bouncing over bumps in the rear, or has more than 80,000 miles, you need new shocks!
This video will show you how to replace your worn out shocks and install new shocks with a step by step DIY.

Check out my other Cars and Coding channel videos to replace the front struts, replace the turbo, install a compass rear view mirror, replace spark plugs, replace front and rear brakes, and more!

Please like this video and subscribe to my channel for more great Audi A4 B8 videos!
Video Links:
How to replace your Turbo: https://youtu.be/bW70AlIyof8
Rear Brakes without vagcom: https://youtu.be/34G3qDPNldE
Front Brakes: https://youtu.be/i00ZIJSOA8w
Front Struts: https://youtu.be/acMMABiJ41E
Rear Shocks: https://youtu.be/QW3U2OEXJQk
PCV Valve: https://youtu.be/dWiq38FShD0
Spark Plugs: https://youtu.be/2bMLsG5mHfY
Hood Support: https://youtu.be/4D2qWyoDrO0
Rear view mirror Compass Upgrade: https://youtu.be/bv8sQHXu2nM
Unitronic Stage 2 Tune Install: https://youtu.be/mNLiTIPUszI

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Comments

Nicko says:

you're a lifesaver! thanks so much for all your informative videos!

S Miah says:

In reply to Joe Costa. I do agree with you there was some errors made on procedures. But these DIY videos are very helpful to prepare you for the actual job. Its a classic mistake to forget to pre-load the suspension before torque suspension bushes but we learn from mistake… I certainly have 🙂
There is a tool to remove the top nut.. I have purchased that tool for £15 as an investment. But without this video I would not known of that tool until half way into the job.
Like I said these vides should only be used as a guide.. I certainly found it useful.

JOE COSTA says:

TO ALL WHO THANKED HIM!!! If you would like to be known at your local auto parts store then by all means proceed. You will become the man at your autozone because that's where you will be every weekend following trash like this. I'm sorry to say it like this but if you are going to be fn up your car then by all means. However, if you choose to inform the not so mechanically inclined person, at least inform them the correct way to do it. This guy is blatantly showing how to f up this repair. For one thing, don't you think a shock manufacturer would notch in or bevel down the shaft so we can easily put on a wrench or adjustable wrench on the shaft if they could. They would innovate the removal and install process by eliminating the speacialty tool socket and that would net them millions. There's a reasoning behind this and it is because it would mess with the integrity of the shaft. Solution being either invest in the tool, see if local auto parts rents it, or take the removed shock somewhere where they will charge you peanuts for this simple mount swap. You don't cut holes in your boxers and your pants do you!!!? No! Why? Sure it would easier to piss and s**! Because YOU RUN THE RISK of you d** hanging out as you walk!!! Just certain things we should not try and shortcut around if we apply some simple logic. Anyone notice how the impact did not struggle at all to remove the bolt from the shaft? So then why go full blown power tightening it back together? Several times at that! Lastly, DO NOT tighten anything with bushings in it while the car is jacked up and hub assembly hanging!!!! This is a huge NO NO. Either take the car somewhere to get these replaced or you measure from center of the wheel to the inner wheel well lip right above it. Place some jack stands under your car and now you cam use your jack to carefully lift up the gun assembly to match that measurement. Put something between the jack and thejacking point when lifting the hub please. Then you tighten the bolts. It has to be compressed to shere it sits when the car is on the ground or you will definitely be penciling in bushings repair the next two weeks on your calendar. I understand that it gets really uncomfortable to tighten bolts down there with the car fully back down on the ground, but if you cant do it either of those two ways, then accept the fact that you have no place doing this install. It's people like this that will be the first to dog on Audi and label them problematic cars because they break alot!!! Sorry for the long ass rant but if I was a near blind welder who made a diy video that made it easy to weld with no mask, would you follow it? Didnt think so! BTW here are the torque specs required
-Top (2) 16mm bolts for upper mount – 50 Nm (36.88 ft-lb) plus an additional 45° turn*
-bottom 21mm bolt to bottom of shock. 150 Nm (110.634 ft-lb) plus an additional 180°*
-16mm or 17mm nut mating mount to the shock shaft. 35Nm
*= please do not do additional turning of bolts with your torque wrench. Use right toole8

S Miah says:

I have done the front shocks but when attempting the rear that bloody lower bolt would not move…AAARRRRRR

gerardo gmz says:

thank you!!

audi A4 ADDICT says:

where are the tightening torques ????? Tu

Andy Gray says:

Another great guide video from you for us home repair people. Tank you

Just for others and for future reference, I have the 2009/2019 1.8l A4 B8 front wheel drive.

I installed the eibach/bilstein pro-kit, which I believe has B8 shocks which gave a good 25-30mm drop all around. However I found the overall ride comfort as very unpleasant.

Just swapped over all shocks to the Koni Active and I couldn't be happier. Still just as Sporty (better even) but now glides over poor road surfaces so much more smoothly. Highly recommend over my experience with the bilsteins.

PS both front bilstein shocks also leaking oil and dead so quickly. The first after about 15 months (replaced) the second other side after only about 26 months. Hardly impressivel for a premium product.

uhjk91 says:

Great video. At 1.42 can you please show clearly where you put the axle stand. From this angle it seems it's not on the pinch weld plate. And you seem to have something black on the axle stand. Thanks

toni ha says:

very good, thanks: could i change it without cordless screwdriver?

Elvis Saucier says:

What is the torque specs for the bolts?

Alex Zega says:

Hi, great video! Do you have sensors on the shock absorber? I watched your other video that replacing front control arms, i also didn’t see any sensors on your front shock absorber. My shocks has the socket that plug into car’s wiring. Just wondering do we have different version of the car? Mine is 2009 A4 B8. I live in Indonesia where all B8 is FWD, 1.8T engine and has comfort and dynamic driving mode.

Nico Crisostomo says:

Thanks for the video

Bryan Johnson says:

Holy crap, never EVER use vice grips to hold the damper shaft like that! ANY nick or scratch on the shaft will cut the seal and cause the shock to leak. And yes, it's hardened and chrome plated, but that actually makes the surface very brittle and easy to crack. If you're watching this video, PLEASE do NOT do that! Get yourself a pass-through ratchet set so you can hold the end of the shaft like it's intended to be done!

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