How to Diagnose & Replace a Front Wheel Bearing – 2002 Acura TL-S — Honda Accord

How to Diagnose & Replace a Front Wheel Bearing – 2002 Acura TL-S — Honda Accord

Does your vehicle make a loud hum sound? It’s probably a bad wheel bearing. In this video, I’ll show you all the symptoms you can diagnose to find out if you have a worn-out wheel bearing and also detect which wheel the noise is coming from.

Some symptoms I have experienced with a bad wheel bearing include:
– A loud hum that gets louder the faster you go
– Visible and Audible play in the wheel in all directions
– Scraping noise when turning sharp, probably because the rotor is rubbing against the rotor heat shield due to play in the wheel.
– A slight vibration throughout the vehicle
– The noise goes away when making turns at higher speeds, then comes back when driving straight again

Find your NSK wheel bearing here! https://www.showmetheparts.com/nsk/

Parts and Tools used in this video:
NSK 45BWD07 Wheel Bearing – https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DBO99D6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Astro Pneumatic Tool 78825 Wheel Bearing Kit – https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JBK2OJO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
TEKTON 36 mm Impact Socket | 4936 – https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NPUKJ8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Cotter Pins – https://www.homedepot.com/b/Hardware/N-5yc1vZc21m/Ntk-semanticsearch/Ntt-cotter%2Bpin?NCNI-5&Ns=P_REP_PRC_MODE%7C0&experienceName=default
Dremel Tool – https://www.amazon.com/s?k=dremel&i=tools&ref=nb_sb_noss_2
M8-1.25 x 40 mm Bolts – https://www.homedepot.com/p/M8-1-25-x-40-mm-Class-8-8-Zinc-Plated-Hex-Bolt-801698/204273588?MERCH=REC-_-searchViewed-_-NA-_-204273588-_-N

Some important notes about this project:
– You do NOT need to replace both front wheel bearings at the same time
– A minor mistake I made: If your Brake Splash Gaurd is as rusted as mine, I would highly recommend replacing it during this wheel bearing service since the only way to properly replace the shield is by removing the hub (which pulls the inner race of the wheel bearing off and requires a new wheel bearing). Otherwise, you could cut off part of the new splash guard so it makes a “C” shape and this will allow you to slide it on from the side without needing to remove the hub.
– There should be no reason to get an alignment afterward
– Give yourself 2 days to work on this encase something breaks or you need to purchase a part or tool
– Press the brake pedal a few times before driving to reengage the caliper
– Get a wheel bearing press kit with a grade 8 drive bolt. This will ensure you can use an impact wrench and not have to worry about stripping the threads. This bolt comes in the Astro Pneumatic Tool kit I used. Don’t get the OrionMotorTech kit. Spend the extra $9, it’ll be worth it.
– No my ABS or CEL light did NOT come on afterward. All is working well!

Torque Specs:
Wheel Lug Nuts – 80 ft/lbs
Spindle Nut – 181 ft/lbs
Brake Caliper Bracket Bolts – 80 ft/lbs
Tie Rod Nut – 32 ft/lbs
Lower Control Arm Castle Nut – 36-43 ft/lbs
Upper Control Arm Castle Nut – 29-35 ft/lbs

0:00 – Introduction
0:22 – Signs and Symptoms of a Bad Wheel Bearing
3:16 – Important Notes Before We Start
3:53 – Parts and Tools You Will Need
7:21 – Set your E-Brake, Place Vehicle on Jack Stands, and Remove Wheel
7:34 – Remove Spindle Nut
8:45 – Remove Brake Line Brackets
9:13 – Remove Brake Caliper and Bracket Assembly
10:06 – Remove Brake Rotor
11:20 – Remove Wheel Sensor Brackets
12:15 – Remove Airbox Cover Assembly
13:17 – Remove Wheel Sensor Clips and Guide Wire through Firewall
14:39 – Remove Tie Rod Ball Joint from Knuckle
15:27 – Remove Lower Control Arm Ball Joint from Knuckle
16:20 – Remove Upper Control Arm Ball Joint from Knuckle
17:35 – Push Driveshaft out of Hub and Remove Knuckle from Vehicle
17:49 – Separate the Hub from the Knuckle
18:47 – Remove Circlip/Snap Ring
20:10 – Remove Heat Shield (Optional)
20:17 – Press Wheel Bearing out of the Knuckle
24:10 – Clean Knuckle with Brake or Carb Cleaner
24:21 – Press New Wheel Bearing into Knuckle
27:44 – Install Circlip/Snap Ring
28:09 – Remove Inner Race from the Hub
29:49 – Clean Hub with Brake or Carb Cleaner
29:55 – Press Hub into Knuckle
32:11 – Put Knuckle back on Vehicle and Guide Driveshaft into Knuckle
33:41 – Torque Upper Control Arm Castle Nut to 29-35 ft/lbs
34:46 – Torque Lower Control Arm Castle Nut to 36-43 ft/lbs
35:49 – Torque Tie Rod Nut to 32 ft/lbs
36:24 – Torque Spindle Nut to 181 ft/lbs and press locking tab back in
37:14 – Reconnect Wheel Sensor and Wheel Sensor Brackets
38:03 – Install Airbox Cover Assembly
38:24 – Install Brake Rotor
38:56 – Install Brake Caliper and Bracket Assembly
39:06 – Torque Brake Caliper Bracket Bolts to 80 ft/lbs
39:11 – Reconnect Brake Line Bracket
39:16 – Install Wheel and torque Lug Nuts to 80 ft/lbs
39:23 – Press Brake Pedal to Reengage caliper, go for a short drive, and torque lug nuts again
40:05 – Conclusion

1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 98 99 00 01 02 03 Acura TL TL-S Type S Sport Premium Prem CL CL-S Honda Accord Sedan Coupe

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Comments

Bailey Webb says:

I have the exact same car and color. First person on YouTube I’ve seen with the same car. Anyway I just hit 200k miles on the car. Any suggestions or maintenance I should do ahead of time?

Machine GunSony says:

Did you get any codes for the abs after removing and putting them back .

LetMeSeeThis99 says:

Finally some new videos.

Jose Argueta says:

Very good video ✌️

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