Brembo Brakes on a Acura TL Remove and Replacement. Honda / Acura vehicles that have Brembo brake set-up.Detailed DIY Instructions on how to change the front…
DIY: Brembo Brakes: Acura TL Front Brakes – Pad and Rotor Replacement – Brembo Set Up
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I hate those little screws they put in the rotors. They are installed at the plant so when the car is moving down the assembly line it makes it that much quicker for them to install the wheels. Another trick to get them out is to get a #2 or #3 (forget the exact size) Philips head screwdriver, one that has a metal shaft going all the way through the handle, place the screwdriver on the screw and while you hit one end with a hammer turn the screw and this will help free it up.
John – thanks for the video. Saved me a bundle at the stealership no doubt. Had problems getting the 2 phillips head screws out of each rotor. What’s their purpose anyway, other than to confound DIYers like me? I had to drill one out, and the other 3 are buggered up so much I think they’ll go in the trash.
No you do not have to change the rotors each time the front brakes are done. It’s a good idea to have them resurfaced or “turned” some parts stores still offer the service and local machine shops as well offer it, just Google it. The owner decided to go with new rotors.
Thanks for the video! Do we have to change the Rotors every time we change the Brembo brakes?
BundysGarage; I drive a 2004 TL but it’s not a type S. I’m wondering if my calipers/brake setup is the same as this one? I do alot of work on my car. Thanks.
Glad it helped you out. Don’t give your hard earned money to those stealerships, they charge the most per hour out of all the places to get your vehicles repaired at.
Very useful! Next time, the dealer won’t be getting hundreds of dollars from me for relatively simple task. Thank you for posting a detailed DIY!
Cross threading would have damaged threads all they way down the bolt. Thus I doubt the your issue is cross threading. It looks as is there was damage corrosion to the tip of the bolt where it was exposed outside the threads in the caliper and when you extracted it the damaged tip had to be pulled through the good threads in the caliper.
Your Welcome.
Thanks!
@Shabahz83, if I don’t have to I do not want to open the hydraulic system to the open air. It is quicker and safer just to push the pistons back into the calibers. Why would you want to bleed the caliper and then have to fight getting all the air out of the system? It should not hurt the ABS system doing it this way, unless there is something wrong with the ABS system to begin with.
Thanks for doing a DIY video for the TL, one thing I wanted to point out is that the TL has ABS, should you not bleed the brakes rather then push the older fluid back into the ABS system?
cross thread is a common thing to happen to Brembo caliper, I seen the deal has cross thread these caliper. Interesting note, I mount the caliper first then pad afterward but anyway its a great DIY video.
I’m glad it helped you out spencerjr007js
That helped a lot, excellent video.
The advice on the 19 mm bolts into the aluminum caliper was really good. On one side I had a hard time getting the bolts to thread properly. A metric thread file and creating a thread cutter bolt like you helped. I only made 2 small cuts on the bolt with a file. The other thing that helped was turning the wheels from side to side to expose the caliper better. Made it easier to get the 19mm bolts out. Again, thanks !!!
Great video. 2 things– Your spacer spring is upside down from how it was on my car. Turning the clip is really hard but with the new pads in the caliper, 1st install the upper 19 mm bolt holding the caliper almost tight. Leave the bottom bolt off. The Caliper will pivot. Then, with the new pads in place, put the spring in, with the clip not turned. Replace the bottom bolt, almost tight. Then using a cotter pin remover, the clip will turn to secure the spacer between the disc pads.
@silasprit, good point. The owner did not want to pay for a new caliper so I had to try and re-tap it. In the end it worked but I’m almost 100% sure that whoever did the job before cross threaded the lower caliper bolt due to the face that all the other bolts came out without a problem. Lesson Learned, don’t cross thread bolts.
That lower bolt looks like it actually pulled out some of the aluminium threads from the caliper. That would explain why it got harder and harder to turn as it came out. That is what happens when no anti-seize is used for assembly.Also looks like about half of the threads were left in the caliper when you showed it after you were done tapping it.
Thanks I need to see this so I coulld do my 2009 Chevrolet Cobalt SS W/Brembo brakes. I took my car to Tires Plus for oil changes and tires many times and they say they have a 20 point inspection or somthing like that. They did not even tell me the front brakes were toast. I found out when the squeeker kicked in. Now I need new rotors–which sucks. I Hate People Who just don’t give a shi* and do as little as possible.
I should of video taped it but I like to use (2) 6 x 6 pieces of wood stacked on top of each other as a jack stand. I feel that the 3 ton floor jacks raise the vehicle too high. I have been looking for low profile jack stands for awhile but cannot seem to find any. I’m thinking about having a local fabricator made me some. The pieces of wood are tucked under the subframe of the car, I just didn’t film it to show you. So if the jack failed, I had a back up. I should of mentioned it.
Dang no jack stands?! I would be paranoid of the jack giving out
Glad I could help out and save you some money as well.
thanks for the video champ. you’ve saved me a few hundred dollars!
Very good video, good job! I like how you showed how to make your own thread bolt. BADASS! I learned something new today.
Yes after to push the pistons back into the calipers and you are ready to pump the brakes, replace the cap on the brake reservoir bottle BEFORE you pump the brakes. Otherwise you will have brake fluid on the engine, paint, firewall, and windshield. Brake fluid eats paint, so try not to get any on your paint. If you do get it on your paint, for whatever reason, the best thing to use is water to clean it up.
When you are pumping the brakes do you leave the reservoir cap on?