Acura MDX- No 3rd Brake Light Diagnose + Repair

Acura MDX- No 3rd Brake Light Diagnose + Repair

A curve ball is thrown on what would otherwise seem too basic a repair for this channel.

Related Videos:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DfLyh43iihM

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Andrew says:

Wow, it actually happens in low-amp circuits…

Sourav De says:

I have same issue. When I am plugging company fitted stop lamps then it does not work but when I am using a another light then it's glowing. But they require same 12 volt then why company fitted lights is not working?
I have even checked the company fitted lights using DC adapter and they worked. Can you give me a solution?

Djeffrey Fenelon says:

Thank you very much

TheSolidPlaya says:

420th like ……………. niccccccccce , lol

xxpr0nag3xx says:

So I had an instance where both voltage drop AND loading the circuit failed me. This was on a freighliner for a rear cross member marker/brake light. The marker light was not working but the brake light was.

So i did a voltage drop test. Got 12 volts. I don't have a load pro but i got resistors. I loaded the circuit with a resistor and checked to see if the voltage dropped. It didn't. The ground splits to the reverse light and i just fixed the T for a reverse light issue so I jumped it to a knows good ground and the light still didn't illuminate. All 3 tests were good. I was then going to do a amp test and see if the amps were dropping off for some reason but earlier in the day i had a instance where a wire was testing good but had an obvious split and greed death on it and it wasn't until i disrupted it that the voltage dropped off so bu a pure hunch i pulled the harness connector to have a look and sure enough, green death and the pin set was split right off.

It could have been that my resistor didn't load the circuit enough, but the light itself was a 5 LED marker running low amps (i think its fused for 5 amps or something) ad my resistor was something like 40 ohms so just by fluke, the resistor load didn't drop voltage but the light did.

Brittany Johnson says:

can you watch this and help me please

burnout510 says:

What if you leave the test light hooked up then measure voltage drop across the test light?

Robert says:

Funny part with DIY load is that you make them like you want them and make them little extra so you cant find them in a shop.

Made 2 (blow up 1 due to ghost voltage in other application).

More will be done.
1. with a simple switch High and Low.
2. with original teslight load 250mA + switch to High load resistor.
2.1 With larger bulb 666mA + switch to 2 other resistors, 3 in 1.

With respect for the black smoke !

Log Elm says:

I wish he posted more often. I've learned allot

virtualdent says:

I'm guessing your other day job has something to do with being a Doctor

Alohababylove says:

DO you have an actual store?

kdmq says:

Not criticizing the LoadPro but I can't practically afford one. The best thing to do without one is to back probe the connector and plug it in to the brake bulb. You should see the voltage plummet as you click the connector together. Such a test is more accurate than you might think because it is based on the component that the wiring was originally designed to feed.

MrTwisted1977 says:

thank u for the reply matt I still don't understand how could there be a variable never mind the pp3 a cheapo £3 dvm probing the back of the connecter with the load switched on will easily detect and display the vd,probe on live side first and earth after will detect the source of excess resistance I. e. live side or earth.i hope u don't mind me disagreeing with u on this one I think u conduct ur diagnosis and tests in exemplary fashion and find them highly interesting and educational,I'm from the u.k. and most techs around here don't know they're arse from their elbow.keep up the good work.WELL DONE!!

MrTwisted1977 says:

good demo and test as always matt however wouldn't it be simpler easier and faster to backprobe bulb connector with a pp3 whilst the load was switched on,no messing about with probing wires and loadpros which I must admit is a good tool but a pp3 seems to be a much easier substitute.anyway keep up the good work ur doing a fantastic job..

mexskal says:

Could of done a voltage drop on bulb no need for the loadpro but i still love the shit outa that thing

busjockey1 says:

Good job Matt. I have been using the leads since 2009 and I have a few videos myself proving that the tool works. Nice to see that other people are realizing this including you.

John Fountain says:

As Eric O says dont touch, have a look ….. why did you remove the bulb (ITS A LOAD) from the holder if you had left it there and used volt meter or your low amp test light you would have seen the issue immediately TEST WHAT YOU SEE DONT DISSEMBLE TO TEST

Noel Matute says:

good video teacher best

Daniel Sullivan says:

As the inventor of the LOADpro, I've heard more arguments than I can count about why a "test light" is a good tool. Go ahead and pierce wiring or back-probe, because being able to do an instant voltage drop with the manufacturer prescribed tool (DVOM) with the component out is "too much trouble". In my experience, one who argues in favor of a test light is likely one who is too scared or lazy to use a meter. I'm used to people pissing in my Post Toasties, and being snide and defensive about poking wires. Consider that a great many "smart" people still believe that you can't place batteries on concrete (you can) and you can appreciate the magnitude of the problem I've had trying to teach my methods. To be frank, I don't give a rat's ass who does or doesn't believe me, because I'm the one with the patents and the CAT, VOLVO, UPS, SouthWest Airlines and other part numbers. The Marines and Navy use my tool – and so does Boeing. It's not about me being right, it's about uninformed loudmouths hurting caring people who need help. I teach – I don't sell. But, bear in mind I'm in a lawsuit with Power Probe right now because Jeff Whisenand (PP CEO) decided that teaching people to vandalize wiring wasn't good enough, so he took my patented concept for his Hook and PP4. You guys can argue to you hearts' content, but voltage drop is the ONLY valid diagnostic test – and Matt, what's the difference in using my leads in your videos or not? They work – why are people so worried about "supporting" me or not? The truth is the truth – and the truth is that defending a bad practice is bad practice.

Inderjeet SINGH GAUTAM says:

sir, you awesome….

urdu learner says:

That was a great video though…

James Last says:

Matt, you didn't use butt connectors did you?  Load Pro FTW!

James Wilson says:

"THIS resistor with a button" love it man. Thanks, Matt.

pedro munoz says:

hey I have load pro too but next time what I like to do is check with a test light than check with a test light while the lights are plug in and you would have seen the test light not coming on test lights are good too you just got to think a little more but do agree the load pro is good too I try too use both

jarin wilson says:

To be honest, the tool looks like a sex toy from the Ottoman empire days…Also please do not let Scotty Kilmer near it. I also heard from a burning bush that Dan and Penn State Jerry were Boy Scout space cadets who shared a shack. That guy is a real dick and I made it very clear that I was not going to lick his boots.

Tom Taylor says:

Hello Matt and everyone in the comment section,

I have an interesting problem and i hope you can help me with directions of what i should do. But first, i'm sorry for my language, but i'll try to describe my problem "as-is".
I own a 2007 Ford Focus II (Europe) with 1.6Ti-VCT engine. I suppose it says nothing to you, because, as i know, there was another Focus II model in USA.

Anyway. After i reach 1/4 of fuel in fuel tank my car sometimes has no response to accelerator pedal for 2-8 seconds, but then everything's ok. I'm sure it's fuel problem and it's probably fuel pump, but i'm not sure and have no money for a new one to replace.
I noticed, that problem shows off only when it's 1/4 or less in fuel tank and only in right corners or fast starts. Left corners and soft starts are ok. Problem shows only when i'm driving. When engine's idling everything's ok too.

OBD diagnostics shows no mistakes, ignition system's definitely ok.
So, i think, that i should check fuel pump pressure. But how can i do it, when i'm driving?
Also i'd check fuel pump voltage w/ and w/o load.
I don't ask you to give me exact solution (it's my problem, not yours), but i'd like to consult with you and your experience just to be sure, that i didn't miss anything obvious and easy to check.

I hope, i'm thinking in right direction.

Thank you in advance and greetings from Russia!
Have a nice day.

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